Plumeria Plants & Soil pH

Welcome All Plumeria & Tropical Plant Lovers,

Today I would like to discuss the subject Plumeria

Plants and Soil pH.

Soil acidity or alkalinity affect plant growth by

influencing the chemical availability of nutrients in

the soil for uptake by the plants. The measure of

acidity or alkalinity, expressed as a number, is

called pH. 

Plant roots absorb mineral nutrients such as 

Nitrogen and Iron when they are dissolved in water.

If the soil solution (the mixture of water and nutrients

in the soil) is too acid or too alkaline, some nutrients

are not available for uptake.
 

A pH of 7 means that the soil is neutral.

If the pH is below 7, the soil is acidic.

If the pH is above 7 the soil is alkaline.

Most nutrients that plants need are readily available

if the pH is between 6.0 and 7.5.

When the pH is below 6.0, some nutrients such as 

Nitrogen, Phosphorus, and Potassium are less 

available to the plant.

When the pH exceeds 7.5, Iron and Manganese are

less available.

Plumeria plants do well when the pH is between

6.0 to 6.7 which means slightly acidic. 

I even read where other authors have suggested a 

pH range as low as 5.0 to 6.0. 

Everyone seems to agree that plumerias grow best in

a slightly acidic soil. 

So how does a gardener measure the pH level

in the soil or potting medium?

Most garden centers carry pH meters. 

This pH meter with a probe will measure

the pH level of your soil/potting mix for you. 

 

Next, I'm including one picture of a plumeria cutting

with three branches which was planted unrooted using

the Egg Method. 

Since March 19, 2011 when the cutting was planted,

it has fully rooted and produced one inflorescence on

each of the three branches.

The major significance of this is THAT BOTH THE ROOTS

AND INFLOS ARE GROWING SIMULTANEOUSLY. 

Prior to the use of this new Egg Method, it was believed

that the plumeria cutting was incapable of growing the root

system and inflorescence at the same time. 

Developing inflos on a rooting cutting use all the plant's energy,

thus depriving the cutting of energy needed for root

development. In order to save the cutting by focusing the

energy back to the root system, the only suggested solution

was to remove the inflorescence....and cut it off. 

When the Egg Method is applied CORRECTLY, the

inflos on rooting cuttings don't have to be sacrificed. 
 

The cuttings now can develop roots and inflos at the same time.
 

       Plumeria cutting rooted & developed inflos at the SAME TIME.

Lastly, I would like to remind you of our "Mother's Day Sale".

From now until Mother's Day on May 8, 2011, 11:59pm PDT

How To Grow Plumeria - Frangipani Anytime Anywhere! 

is offered at an EXTRA $5 OFF.   IT MAKES A GREAT GIFT!

Plumerias are like our Mothers in so many ways.

They are beautiful.  They are sensitive.

Each one is unique. Each one is special.

They bring joy and delight into our lives.

We love them with all our hearts.

Happy Mother's Day to all Mothers,

Alles Gute zum Muttertag für Alle Mütter,

Bonne fête des mères à toutes les mères,

Felice Festa della Mamma a tutte le mamme,

Madre Feliz Día a todas las madres,

Feliz Dia das Mães para todas as mães, 

  

Bob Walsh

www.howtogrowplumeriafrangipani.com

Plumeria Plants And Plumeria Cuttings Producing Inflorescences

Welcome All Plumeria & Tropical Plant Lovers,

I would like to discuss the term inflorescence 

and inflorescences on plumeria plants today.

An inflorescence can be defined as a cluster of

flowers which are arranged on a stem.

This stem can be composed of one main branch or

it can be a main branch with side branches as you

can see on the picture below.  The picture shows one

plumeria inflorescence consisting of a main branch

and several side branches. 

This picture was taken on April 28, 2011. 

 

Plumeria plants produce their inflorescences

at the end of their branches. 

After the "inflo", short for inflorescence, has

started to develop, new branches start to form

at the base of the inflo (see picture below).

The pointed reddish tip protrusions from the

base below the inflo are the new branches. 

Anywhere from two to seven or more side 

branches can be produced. This is the

regular cycle for plumeria plants.

It should be noted that plumeria plants can

produce an inflo and have continued growth

without branching. That is why plumeria

plants are so exciting to grow because each

plant has its own unique growth cycle. 

Later in the growth cycle the very same 

plumeria plant produces another inflo and

starts the branching process.

The side branches are symmetrical and 

produce well balanced plants.

The following picture shows another developing

inflo. This time you can see the developing

branches at the base of the inflo.

  

When it comes to plumeria cuttings that produce

inflos, it should be noted that all the energy of

the cutting goes into the development of the inflo. 

Any roots being formed at the same time will suffer

due to the lack of available energy, which has all

been redirected to the inflo.  In this case, one

needs to remove the inflo in order to save the 

cutting so all the energy will be redirected to the 

development of the root system. 

Last Fall, a friend of mine, Mimi Palmer, who is 

passionate about growing tropical plants, applied a new

rooting method to plumerias with phenomenal results.

This was the very first time this rooting method

was applied to plumerias after having heard

success stories with other plants and vegetables.

When I gave this rooting method a try, I was

amazed and mesmerized by the phenomenal

results now with my own plumerias right here in

zone 5 before my very own eyes.

Not only did my plumeria cuttings form roots in

record time....even over the fall and winter months

when plumerias are believed to go into dormancy,

but much to my surprise based on what is written

above.... they produced inflos and roots at the

same time!

This new rooting method, through my experience,

supplies the needed energy directly to the developing

root system to form strong and healthy roots

while allowing the cutting to grow the inflo at the

same time.

The following picture is of one cutting of

Plumeria 'Celadine'.

This cutting was planted on March 19, 2011

and produced its inflo and roots AT THE SAME

TIME after this new rooting method was applied.
 

The picture below was taken on April 30, 2011.

It took exactly 6 weeks to the day for the cutting

to root fully and develop its inflo with its first

opening flower. 

Lastly, I would like to remind you that today

May 1, 2011 is the last day to get

How To Grow Plumeria - Frangipani Anytime Anywhere! 

at an Extra $5 OFF.

Happy Growing to all my Gardening Friends,

Bob Walsh

www.howtogrowplumeriafrangipani.com 

Plumeria Plants – Part I – Terms and Definitions for Plumerias & other Tropical Plants – “A” Through “I”

Plumeria plants are gaining more and more popularity worldwide as more information about growing and rooting methods become available. For the average gardener it is important to understand the lingo he/she encounters when reading about tropical plants, plumeria plants in particular.

Plumeria 'Charlotte Ebert'

This is part one of a multiple part series of terms for plumeria gardeners. The list of terms is in alphabetical order and can easily be filed for future reference. This reference series is very helpful when communicating with other knowledgeable plant lovers and gardeners . By using the same terms describing issues about plumerias moves the discussion along since these terms have you speaking the same language.

Following are the terms that are helpful knowing when reading about plumeria plants, and tropical plants in general.

Anther is the male reproductive part of flowers. This is actual the part which contains the pollen.

Anthesis describes the time and the process of budding, including the opening of flowers. One synonym for Anthesis is blossoming.

Apical bud is the terminal bud which develops at the tip of the branches.

Axis is described as the angle between the upper surface of the leaf and the stem to which it is attached.

Buds are small bulges, knobs, or swellings on stems or branches. These buds contain an undeveloped flower, leaf, or shoot. This general term covers all the multiple type buds, not just the 'flower bud'.

Bud drop is the premature dropping of the flower buds before they had a chance to fully open.

Callus is the thickened tissue which is developed by woody plants to cover cuts.

Cambium can be described as a ring of tissue which is found in woody seed plants. Cork is produced on the outside of the ring and primary tissue on the inside. This primary tissue is composed of thin-walled cells.

Chimera is a genetic mutation in plants. It can cause part of the plant or all of the plant to have a different appearance when compared to the original plant.

Chlorophyl is the green pigment of plants which traps the energy of the sun for photosynthesis.

Cork is described as the outer layer of the bark.

Corolla is the term used to describe all petals of one flower.

Cortex is the outer portion of stems and roots.

Cotyledons are the first emerging leaves of seedlings. Cotyledons are not considered “true” leaves. They provide the seedlings with nourishments until the true leaves have developed.

Damping off is the premature demise of seedlings which is many times caused by overcrowding and overwatering of seedlings.

Deciduous plants are plants which lose their leaves during a specific season.

Evergreen plants are plants which maintain their foliage throughout the year.

Floral envelope describes all sepals and petals of one flower.

Floret is an individual flower in a flower cluster.

Floriferous is the term used for plants which flower abundantly.

Flowers are reproductive structures of some seed bearing plants.

Fungus is a collective term for a wide variety of organisms which reproduce by spores.

Fungicide is described as any toxin which kills or prevents the growth of fungi. Note: fungi is plural for fungus.

Hermaphrodite is any bisexual plant which means that the flower contains both stamens and pistils.

Indigenous plants are plants which grow naturally in a particular region.

Inflorescence is the term used to describe a flower cluster or a characteristic arrangement of flowers on a stem.

Insecticide is any chemical substance which is used to kill insects.

Part One covers letters “A” through “I”. Part Two of this Plant Terms Series will begin with the letter “J”. Stay tuned for Part Two with the remaining alphabetical listings of terms and definitions from the world of plumeria plants and tropical plants in general.

For more information on plumerias and for your FREE tropical plant guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Plumeria Plant Care.

Plumeria obtusa 'Singapore'

Copyright © Bob Walsh 2011

www.howtogrowplumeriafrangipani.com

Stephanotis floribunda Flowers

Stephanotis floribunda is also called Madagascar Jasmine, Waxflower and Hawaiian Wedding Flower. It is a flowering climbing plant producing flowers which are commonly used in bridal bouquets.

Stephanotis floribunda

Stephanotis flowers are waxy, star-shaped and highly scented. Flowers fade to yellow after several days. The flowers last a long time and have a strong sweet scent.

Stephanotis floribunda grows best in sunny locations. Make sure the soil is well draining and let the top of the soil come to a visible dryness before watering again. Regular fertilizing with a fertilizer high in Phosphorus promotes flowering. It also appreciates regular misting and foliar feeding.

Propagation is by cuttings or seeds, which are produced irregularly. Fresh seeds will germinate in about seven days.

Stephanotis floribunda, like other tropical plants, including plumerias, can be grown successfully  if proven and tested guidelines are followed.

Next, for your FREE tropical plants guide, Grow Your Own Tropical Garden, visit Tropical Plants. 

Copyright © Bob Walsh 2011

Vireya - Tropical Rhododendron

Vireya is also called Tropical Rhododendron.

 

These are semi-tropical rhododendrons that are mainly

native to the mountains of Indonesia, Malaysia, Borneo

and Papua New Guinea, and the Philippines.

In their native habitat tropical rhododendron can be found

growing either as epiphytes or terrestrials.

Vireya come in a variety of shapes and sizes ranging

from dwarf size to shrubs and trees of all sizes.

Some tropical rhododendrons have  foliage as thin as pine

needles while others have leaves that can grow a foot long. 

Their flowers are often fragrant, and are the most colorful

of all rhododendrons. The most common colors include

orange, pink, red and yellow.

 

When planting Vireya, like many tropical plants,

rapid drainage is of utmost importance. Their roots

run close to the surface and can easily heat up

from the sun. Providing Vireya with good mulch

covering keeps the roots cool.

Vireya like bright light, but not direct sunlight, which

promotes buds set. Planted in shady areas will help

keep their colors bright.  They should be protected

from hot midday sun to prevent the burning of

foliage and buds. 

Pinching new growth results in more branching.

Regular deadheading of the seedpods is recommended

to direct the plant's energy to bud production.

 

When you decide to plant your tropical rhododendron

in a pot, smaller is better as Vireya actually perform 

better when roots are pot bound.

Use a fertilizer which is designed for plants that

prefer acidic soil which results in healthy foliage

and bud production. 

Like other tropical and semi-tropical plants Vireya

can bring you years of enjoyment when you follow

tested and proven guidelines. 

Copyright © Bob Walsh 2011

www.howtogrowplumeriafrangipani.com